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Post by fzjamie on May 19, 2020 22:55:37 GMT
Hi All
Got around to a valve clearance check and quite a few were tight. Got Clymer out and got the camshafts out.. Inlet cam got a bit stuck though and I had to push and pry it a bit. Not a lot but i've started to worry now I'm home form the work-shed place Is there room to rotate in the head withe the buckets and shims removed to check for tight spots?
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Post by Graham on May 20, 2020 20:10:19 GMT
I had this problem with my Fazer head recently. Not FZX750, FZs1000. I fitted cams minus shims and buckets so I cound identify which cap was causing the inlet cam to go tight. Still timed them up with pistons but I don't think the lobes will even act on the valves without buckets and shims in place. I turn my engine over with a spanner on the flywheel end of the crank. You may need to screw a bolt and locking nut in the crank on you FZ.
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Post by fzjamie on May 22, 2020 11:33:45 GMT
OK, so turns out there isn't enough clearance for a rull rotation but you can get maybe 30 deg rotation between lobes hitting the valves stems to I tried it in a couple of spots after crewing teh caps down lightly turning by hand on the sprocket - didn't seem too tight, I hope..
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Post by Graham on May 22, 2020 12:58:43 GMT
Do you mean turning by the cam sprocket? Caps will need to be fully tight for best result. Have you worked out what sizes you need yet regards shims?
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Post by karlvb on May 22, 2020 13:25:00 GMT
Hi Fzjamie if u want to check that the best way unfortunately is to disassemble the head I’ve got a prob on my inlet cam the valves r out but I torqued the head and cambox down to make shore they were flat against the Barrels very impoertant as the cam box and head r relatively thin castings and there fore subject to warping I used an old head gasket which I stripped the sealant / paint off and torqued the head to the Barrels cam box to head as barrels and cases r relatively rigid and not so subject to warping I had my cousin turn me up a a hollow mandrel I’ll slit it to hold fine wet and dry and I’ve already found the tightish brg so using plenty of wd40 I’ll polish that brg with cap torqued down and keep retrying the cam after every thing is really clean Yu don’t want carborundum innyour oil way!! A disaster!! The mandrel I had made is a couple of mm down on the cam brg bore with room for a few wraps of wet and dry I’ll prob use 800 grit or 600 quite why these brgs tighten I’m not sure I am using different cams tho but I checked those for run out and brg Dia and were fine so don’t know I was given the above advice by an ex motorcycle mech and he’d done this procedure on lots of bikes especially if they’d damaged a cam cap and had to use another one which obviously was not lined bored with the original head so presented tightness probs he said u have to be patient and go slowly and keep checking sorry to b the bearer of bad news but really it’s the only way so to stop grit getting to your pistons thru the valve guides I’d just use tape over them or plasticine the remove the head and any oil pipes under the cam biox and blow out with brake cleaner and compressed air and cover as much as u can with clean rags before hand Best o luck I’m still waiting for my mandrel so I can do mine
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Post by karlvb on May 22, 2020 15:00:31 GMT
Jamie fz just had a thought if you’ve got access to a surface plate and some G clamps a pieces of flat bar or box section you could remove the cambox after removing the cam buckets and clamp the cam box evenly to a clean surface plate and then tighten all your cam caps down nice and even and check your cams for rotation u might have to remove the cam sprockets for that save u a crap loada work a good tool makers shop may have a surface plate they r an expensive piece of shop equipment so no point trying to buy one I guess I was lucky in that my cyl head was already off and engine in bits keep us posted 😎
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Post by fzjamie on May 23, 2020 16:50:29 GMT
Hi Chaps - thanks. I'm reasonably confident its Ok. I snugged all the caps done with a spanner (not accurate torque). before my basic test. Its; not sloppy and turns relatively freely pushng the sprocket (chain not engaged - strung up tyo frame).
As for shims a I still need a couple of 175s a couple of 180s and a 185 (Alan is sending me a couple too which is great.)
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Post by karlvb on May 24, 2020 5:11:43 GMT
U couldn’t get a full rotation but prob near enough don’t know why mine is a bit tight but I’ll correct it 😎
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Post by karlvb on May 24, 2020 5:12:09 GMT
U couldn’t get a full rotation but prob near enough don’t know why mine is a bit tight but I’ll correct it 😎
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Post by pipes66 on Jun 16, 2020 9:15:29 GMT
Every time I take the cams out the inlet gets a little stuck. I don’t think it’s a problem.
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leino
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by leino on Jun 19, 2020 18:09:01 GMT
If the cam was tight to the head/cam caps it would have seized a long time ago. This is a pretty normal issue with "modern engines", starting from FZ and going on with GSX-R 1000's etc when removing cams. If it was a Cow-asaki you could have an issue
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