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hi
May 14, 2011 20:40:01 GMT
Post by lemming on May 14, 2011 20:40:01 GMT
Hiya, been lurking from time to time, thought I'd register Got a 1987 FZ with about 35k on the clock. Not had it long but I love it. Having some mechanical problems with it now though Quick question - does anyone know what size socket I need to remove the spark plugs?
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ssrat
New Member
Posts: 21
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hi
May 15, 2011 1:53:42 GMT
Post by ssrat on May 15, 2011 1:53:42 GMT
It's an 18mm. A regular 18mm deep has too thick of a wall, it won't make it down that space to get to the plugs. I use an 18mm deep I bought cheap and sanded down. Used an old plug in my drill's chuck, double thick layer of leather work gloves and some 80 grit sandpaper. It took a while but it now works perfect. Or, you can spend about $20.00 USD on one that's specific. Also, I've found removing the bottom bolts that hold the rad in place lets you 'swing' the rad out a bit so you can get in there with a ratchet and extensions.
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hi
May 15, 2011 19:18:57 GMT
Post by FlyRLo on May 15, 2011 19:18:57 GMT
I just changed the plugs in mine and found it easiest to remove the fuel tank and there is plenty of room to access the plugs from the top.
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ssrat
New Member
Posts: 21
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hi
May 16, 2011 1:59:45 GMT
Post by ssrat on May 16, 2011 1:59:45 GMT
I've got a plastic heat shield that is a PITA to remove in the way. :/
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hi
May 19, 2011 10:55:23 GMT
Post by lemming on May 19, 2011 10:55:23 GMT
I've got a plastic heat shield that is a PITA to remove in the way. :/ Same, although even with the tank and heat shield gone, it looks like it's going to be a bit fiddly. Think I'll see if I can get the radiator off, could do with a clean up and coolant change anyway. Didn't have an 18mm socket, have had to order one. Fingers crossed it'll be narrow enough to fit into the hole
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ssrat
New Member
Posts: 21
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hi
May 19, 2011 13:43:41 GMT
Post by ssrat on May 19, 2011 13:43:41 GMT
Needs to be a deep socket. Motion Pro makes one specifically for this type of application that can be turned by 3/8 drive, an open ended wrench or a pin.... but it costs $20 USD. And prepare for a mess if draining the coolant.... unless someone knows something I don't!!!
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hi
May 19, 2011 15:15:30 GMT
Post by Graham on May 19, 2011 15:15:30 GMT
can't remember the size I used on the FZ but I found an imperial sized socket from my set of long reach ones that fitted perfectly. My local sureparts will sell individual sockets for most jobs but I bought a set of metric & imperial "long reach" sockets years ago which seem to get used more often than my standard ones. Try changing a set of plugs on an early Honda Fireblade if you're feeling hard done by with the FZ's lack of access!
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hi
May 19, 2011 19:23:33 GMT
Post by lemming on May 19, 2011 19:23:33 GMT
Sorry ssrat, I should probably have said "don't have a deep 18mm socket". If I was at home, Dad would probably have had an old imperial socket lying around that would fit, but I'm at uni and he's on holiday so had to order one . Hmm might see if I can avoid a coolant change for now, in that case. Only have an empty water bottle (5L) to collect the old coolant in, and clymer seems to suggest it should be drained from several points at the same time? Not feeling too hard done by just yet, Graham, though i'll admit having to remove so much bodywork before I can even get near the plugs was a surprise. I've only really worked on a GPZ500 before now.
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ssrat
New Member
Posts: 21
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hi
May 19, 2011 19:41:45 GMT
Post by ssrat on May 19, 2011 19:41:45 GMT
You only really need to remove the 2 side panels and the bottom rad bolts. Loosen the top ones a bit, and the rad will 'swing' forward, won't hurt anything. Gives you enough room to work with under there. As for draining the coolant, the cleanest way I've found is the jack the back of the bike up a bit, and open the front drain bolt (it's beside the 's' at the front... right under the leftmost exhaust pipe. Once drained, you can move to the bottom drain bolt. I haven't found a clean way to do that yet. Anyone else figure out a cleaner way?
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