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Post by gunzen on Dec 31, 2010 22:09:03 GMT
:Okay, so i bought an 86 fz from a guy for 750 bucks. He said the battery was dead, so he jumped it, it started fine, and ran great. I noticed that the key did not turn off the bike, he had to use the run/stop to do so. But for 750, it seemed like a good deal. Doesn't leak a drop oil, had some rash on one side, but not much. The paint was surprisingly well kept, so i figured I would get the electrical figured out. I get it home, and after installing new battery, it started right up, but then the next time I tried, the dash lights went out, no spark, and it cranks fine? So I had ordered an new tumbler set, as this one looked beat up, and due to the shut off problem. Didn't fix any problems. So as of now, headlights/dash ...no Tail lights...yes Blinkers, Start button...yes, all bar controls actually work. Spark...no gas...yes all fuses under the seat are good as well. Also he had seemed to have installed a toggle under the seat, and last night I didn't click it off, and the batter almost died. So now i am stuck. current is getting to the coils i checked that. I am lost here guys. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Attachments:
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Post by number6 on Jan 1, 2011 12:06:27 GMT
I hate electrical problems but sometimes you've just gotta jump in.
Has the loom been chopped up or messed about with? If not and there are no obvious issues you've just got to get back to basics, get yourself a wiring diagram and trace things back through. Sorry but without being there thats all the help I can offer. Good luck.
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Post by tomster on Jan 1, 2011 14:03:00 GMT
It sounds as if you've got a short or broken connection somewhere. To be able to work on electrical faults, you're going to need a meter. The toggle switch seems to indicate that there's a drain on the battery somewhere, and that's why it's been fitted. Electrical faults are common on bikes of this age, as we can all confirm, but by the time you've finished you'll have learned a lot about the bike. Good luck!!
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Post by Graham on Jan 1, 2011 15:29:53 GMT
I don't claim to be an expert in this department but have managed to sort all of the electrical faults on my FZ using a multi meter & the wiring diagrams in my Clymer manual. Simple continuity tests along suspect wires with or without battery connected can be useful. My 1st fix would be to remove the diy toggle switch & then see if you can find the reason for it. Never ceases to amaze me the lengths some people will go to in order to "cure" a simple wiring fault.
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Post by gunzen on Jan 1, 2011 19:57:41 GMT
the clymers manual wont be in till next week. I ordered it from ebay. I am just hoping it isn't something major. For 750 bucks, I really cant go wrong though. I did ride it, and it ran great. Unfortunately, just for a short time. I am going to remove that toggle, and then begin the process. I will keep you updated. That 86 was my first bike I ever owned back in 87. And have always loved it. I ride a Ducati now, but seeing that thing in my garage just makes me smile, running or not. Brings back to many memories. Attachments:
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Post by gunzen on Jan 1, 2011 20:16:15 GMT
I there a way to test the coil with a meter? I have one would just like to start narrowing it down.
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Post by Crusty on Jan 2, 2011 21:58:59 GMT
E-mail me,
I have a PDF of the manual
Mailforcrap1@yahoo.com
And PM me on here telling me you did it...
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Post by gunzen on Jan 3, 2011 15:30:05 GMT
E-mail me, I have a PDF of the manual Mailforcrap1@yahoo.com And PM me on here telling me you did it... PM sent.
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Post by Crusty on Jan 3, 2011 18:52:16 GMT
Sending now
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Post by Crusty on Jan 3, 2011 19:32:30 GMT
Sorry, file is too big for E-mail...
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Post by gunzen on Jan 5, 2011 7:59:53 GMT
I never used it, Manual came in yesterday. I truly appreciate your effort, and i will keep it on file, in case I have a problem on the road, i can access it from my phone. I started troubleshooting the no spark issue first. i will worry bout the lights AFTER i get it running again. According to my ohm meter, if I am using it right, the side stand relay is showing no ohms at power. It should be showing infinity. I feel this may be the cause of the no park issue, but not sure about the rest. now i need to source that part. any ideas on a generic, or even if it is possible to get one?
thanks.
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Post by JohnRogerOhanlon on Jan 5, 2011 18:30:25 GMT
Hi Gunzen, double check that switch on the side stand-if in doubt disconnect it and see if that helps-you can leave it disconnected until the fault is found ALTHOUGH i can't see how that could drain the battery when the bike is switched off. Did you say you have changed the ignition switch? (the one with the key in) These get worn over time and water and crud just gets in there to accellerate any problems. If you can get a new one and just plug it in-don't go to all the trouble of unscrewing the old one-it may still be OK but a new one will eliminate that from your enquiries. I would also have a word with the previous owner and it is my guess he hadn't owned it long so see if he has the previous owners phone number-if they can give you any clues it really helps. Next I would look under the engine where any of the wiring goes-sometimes something off the road can flick up and gash your wiring. The next thing that I would do is unplug ONE BY ONE and trying the bike at the same time the various sockets to do with the ignition circuit. If you can wiggle them this can work some times to itemize an intermittent fault. Carefully examine the metal connectors for that ''green'' corrosion which occurs. Then I would take the sockets off the ignitor box and check them for green corrosion. What you could do with is another wiring loom to chop and change bits from-ideally another bike. Finally, I would get hold of a new bit of switchgear which has the kill switch on and plug that in. Other than that look up one of the friends of the family who used to be a TV repairman as those guys are always helpful. Keep us informed of your progress but my monies on the ignition switch. JohnO'Hanlon
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Post by gunzen on Jan 6, 2011 7:17:51 GMT
Hi Gunzen, double check that switch on the side stand-if in doubt disconnect it and see if that helps-you can leave it disconnected until the fault is found ALTHOUGH i can't see how that could drain the battery when the bike is switched off. Did you say you have changed the ignition switch? (the one with the key in) These get worn over time and water and crud just gets in there to accelerate any problems. If you can get a new one and just plug it in-don't go to all the trouble of unscrewing the old one-it may still be OK but a new one will eliminate that from your inquiries. I would also have a word with the previous owner and it is my guess he hadn't owned it long so see if he has the previous owners phone number-if they can give you any clues it really helps. Next I would look under the engine where any of the wiring goes-sometimes something off the road can flick up and gash your wiring. The next thing that I would do is unplug ONE BY ONE and trying the bike at the same time the various sockets to do with the ignition circuit. If you can wiggle them this can work some times to itemize an intermittent fault. Carefully examine the metal connectors for that ''green'' corrosion which occurs. Then I would take the sockets off the igniter box and check them for green corrosion. What you could do with is another wiring loom to chop and change bits from-ideally another bike. Finally, I would get hold of a new bit of switchgear which has the kill switch on and plug that in. Other than that look up one of the friends of the family who used to be a TV repairman as those guys are always helpful. Keep us informed of your progress but my monies on the ignition switch. JohnO'Hanlon First thing I did was buy a new switch/tumbler and plugged it in. Made no difference. Gonna start hitting it hard tomorrow. i have already checked every single connection, and they all look good. This is gonna be a tough one. The good thing is, I rode the bike, and it ran great with a bad battery, so I know the thing does run. There is something there though. I am gonna just have to teach myself some new skills. Will definitely keep you posted. I have the Duc, so it wont keep me from riding, but I cant wait to get my old buddy on the road. Thanks again for yours and everyone else who has helped. To be continued......
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Post by tomster on Jan 6, 2011 17:44:22 GMT
It'll be a massively different beast to the Duke. Are those proper Termignoni cans on it? (the Duke I mean)
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Post by gunzen on Jan 6, 2011 23:19:20 GMT
Okay, so here is the deal, did another litany of tests today, and the bike passed em all, but I noticed that even tho the key was off, the power was still on the main harness. Bottom line, is, the dude who had it last, juxtaposed the alternator wires, and that is what was causing the drain. Also, that is what blew out my headlights. You see the wired had heated up when I put on the new battery. And the orange wires was supposed to go thru the fuse box, but wasn't, was going directly to the lights. Anyone know a good place to get bulbs? He crossed the orange with the red.
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